Day 3: Extant Garment

            One of the most common mistakes made in the costuming world is neglecting your undergarments. The proper foundation makes any outfit look even better, and in a century like the 18^th century, where structural undergarments were such a key part of every ladies’ wardrobe, it’s important to build your ensemble from the skin up. Before I had ever sewn a dress that required side hoops, I made a pair of hoops, also known as panniers, to wear while draping my future gowns.

            The hoops I constructed were made with the help of the Dreamstress’ “Panier Along”, and very much inspired by a pair of hoops currently in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. When I visited the museum this past March to see their exhibit Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear, I was thrilled to find the hoops featured at the beginning of the display.

            It shouldn’t come as a shock to anyone, but costumers and historians can both be a little crazy, and I have my feet solidly in both camps. So, one of the most special parts about my trip to England was getting to see a garment that I had studied through a computer screen, recreated with my own two hands, and worn in the heat of a Williamsburg summer, staring right back at me in real life. I had done everything that I could to learn about panniers and understand them, and after I felt that I had finally gotten almost all of the knowledge I needed from that particular subset of history, I was fortunate enough to see the piece that started it all. I know, I know, that’s really nerdy, but it was a really exciting moment for me.

 

Side Pannier Hoops - More Undergarments!

So, recently I have been on an undergarments kick. I know that sounds really strange, but without the proper foundations, historical clothing just doesn't look quite right. Actually, the whole issue of having proper undergarments, as well as some really cool history on underwear, is explained in a podcast from How Stuff Works - Stuff You Missed in History Class, called "Bloomers and Beyond." You should check it out! Anyway, I decided that I needed side pannier hoops, and I needed them badly. I started doing some research on how to make them, when I stumbled across The Dreamstress. Not only does this awesome lady sew a ton of historical garments, she blogs about them, and even has some where she goes step-by-step so that anyone can do it! Needless to say, I was super excited to discover her website. I became even more excited when I discovered that she had done a "Pannier-Along," so that others could make their own panniers! I'm not going to go step-by-step here, because the Dreamstress has already done such a good job of it, so I'll just post some of my pictures, and wish you all luck!

This is the image for the button, but the link is up above, because I struggle some with technology.

Channels for the boning in place!

I am so proud of myself for how nice these pleats look, because I got them right on my first try!

My reeds! These cost about $5 for each bundle, and I needed two bundles.

All cut to length, waiting to be shaped.

I put two buckets, one inside of the other, so properly open up the reeds. The bucket with the bag has water in it.

Keeping the reeds stretched open while soaking.

The reeds soaking, the bag closed with a rubber band.

Ready to take out!

Drying in their new shape...

...and ready to put in the channels!

All pleated and ready to go, just needs a waistband.

Done!